Mary, what other work have you done in
Russia?
"I have been coming to Russia since 1965
and have produced two major collections: one
was the Muscovy collection, which was
inspired by the 16th century, and the other
was Le Bal de L'Hermitage collection; which
looked back at the last ball held by Tsar
Nicholas II."
What originally brought you into the
world of fashion?
"I took a very circuitous route to
fashion. I started off as a political
journalist in Africa and I was also editor of
Vogue South Africa. I covered a huge expanse
of Africa and it was during these travels
that I collected some unique silks from
Madagascar which were used to wrap the dead.
At the same time I began making my own
clothes because I couldn't find any I
particularly liked in the stores.
"When civil war broke out in Zimbabwe I
returned to America to be editor of Vogue
there, and I took my designs with me.
"My first commission led to a national
press show at which I sold a million dollars'
worth of my clothes. It was then that I made
a career change: I found design was
infinitely easier than writing."
How do you weave your inspiration from
the past into designs for the modern
world?
"You'll find that the more ancient a
civilisation is, the more modern it is. It's
in the purity of ancient civilisations that
we find the equivalent in modern times."
Do you think that the clothes you
design are for a special type of
woman?
"The definition of a collection is that it
should apply to any woman. Haute Couture is
an ideal. You take the most beautiful models
in the world and set the image you are trying
to achieve."
What do you think of the Russian models
you are using here?
"Oh, they're gorgeous -- every inch as
beautiful as the girls I use in New
York."
What is beauty to you?
"There are many aspects. There's classical
beauty, like that of Grace Kelly and Greta
Garbo, and then there's beauty which
comprises extreme intelligence,
sophistication and knowledge."
Apart from with clothes and jewellery,
how do you think a woman can enhance her
beauty?
"Well, we have a huge amount of knowledge
about plastic surgery. The other possibility
is to refine your body through diet and
exercise."
How do you think a woman should
approach fashion in order to dress
well?
"Fashion is about the flair that one has,
or the imagination and fantasy that one
achieves in presenting oneself: Some women
have this wonderful flair, and others do
not."
Are you happy with the way you
look?
"I have done the best I can I
imagine."
How would you describe your
character?
"I am very fun-loving and athletic. I try
to be encyclopedic in my knowledge. And I try
to give a lot of love to my friends."
Do you believe that women today still
need men in their lives?
"I think men give you incredible energy
and they stimulate me. I love them for their
beauty and I choose them for their internal
beauty and their intelligence. I can remain
with the same man for a long time if he's
intelligent."
What qualities do you most admire in
anyone?
"Intelligence, imagination and taste."
Are you religious?
"I am a Sufi Shia Muslim. I converted ten
years ago."
Why did you convert?
"I was ten years on 'the path'. There are
masters along the path, and mine were in
India."
And finally what do you value
most?
"Love, because it crosses over to many
aspects of life. Love of life, love of your
friends, and love of your family."
INTERVIEW: GAETANA
ENDERS
REPORT: TREE ELVEN
PHOTOS: SVEN ARNSTEIN
Reprinted on the
Internet with permission from
HELLO! Magazine.
